Trims & notes
• #5 moulded reverse-coil zip, 68 cm, closed-end
• Zip puller, matte metal or moulded, 2.5 cm
• Round drawcord 0.5 cm, ~140 cm (hood)
• Metal eyelets x2 (hood facing) + reinforcement patches
• Cord ends x2
• 1.2 cm twill neck tape (~60 cm)
• Woven label (inside back neck, on the hood lining seam)
• Care label (side seam, 10 cm above hem)
• The rib hem must be cut as two pieces and squared at the zip. Cut as one piece and shaped at the ends, the two halves finish at different heights and the hem steps across the zip — the most common visible fault on a sample zip hoodie.
• Grade the zip length with the body. The zip is a bought trim at a fixed length per size, and a size run built on one zip length means XS has a zip reaching past the hem and XXL has one stopping short of it.
• Use self fabric for the pocket bags, not pocketing. A 70 GSM pocketing bag inside 420 GSM fleece shows as a pale shadow through the front panel in any light.
• Set the hood eyelets through both plies with a reinforcement patch, 2.4 cm either side of the zip. Eyelets set in the outer ply only pull out, and at the zip there is less cloth to hold them than on a pullover.
• Bar-tack all four corners of both pocket openings. Hands in pockets is the load case that destroys this garment, and an unsecured corner tears the front panel, not the pocket.
• A two-way zip is a $1.50 upgrade and a sampling risk at this stage. Single closed-end for the first run.