Gorpcore · relaxed straight, close through the shoulder

Waffle-Knit Thermal Henley

SwitchbackWaffle

240 GSM cotton thermal waffle, 56 cm chest, 72 cm length, 1.5 cm shoulder drop, 16 cm four-button placket, 2.5 cm rib neck band, 6 cm rib cuffs

FRONT

BACK

Free vector flat

No account

The drawing above, front and back, as an editable vector — open it in Illustrator, Figma or Affinity and put your own graphics on it. Measurements aren't on the flat; they're in the tech pack.

The vector flat above is free and always will be. The tech pack — graded measurements, tolerances, fabric weights and construction — is the paid part.

Starting spec — make a sample before you order in bulk.

New to tech packs? Read how to make one, step by step →

Fabric

240

GSM · Heavyweight · range 210–280

Cotton thermal waffle knit — 100% cotton. Honeycomb waffle face, singed and bio-polished, compacted. Waffle grows in width and shrinks in length more than flat jersey — specify compacting and ask for the shrinkage report on the actual waffle, not on the mill's jersey

Trim: 1x1 rib (neck band and cuffs) · 95% cotton / 5% elastane · 280 GSM

What does GSM mean? Read the fabric weight guide →

How it's made

Shoulder

Set-in, near-natural shoulder, 1.5 cm drop — 4-thread overlock + 0.6 cm twin-needle topstitch, neck tape caught in

Neck

1x1 rib band, 2.5 cm finished, attached with the body on top and coverstitched; 1.2 cm twill tape across the back neck · rib height: 2.5 cm · topstitch: Coverstitch 0.6 cm on the body side of the band seam

Closure

four-button half placket · buttons: 4 · button size: 18L corozo or 2-hole melamine, 1.1 cm · spacing: 4.3 cm

Placket

self-fabric two-piece placket, 3.2 cm finished width · length: 16 cm · bottom: Bar-tacked box, 1.6 cm wide, through all plies · interlining: Light knit fusible in the buttonhole ply only — a woven fusible in a waffle placket makes a board that stands away from the chest

Sleeve hem

6 cm 1x1 rib cuff

Body hem

2.5 cm 2.5 cm turned-up hem, coverstitched. Straight, with a 4 cm side-seam vent bar-tacked at the top

Side seams

4-thread overlock

Stitch density spi

12 stitches per inch

Size chart

Garment laid flat · M is the sample size

Measure

XXL

A

Body length (HPS to hem) ± 1 cm

B

Chest width (1 cm below armhole) ± 1 cm

53.5

58.5

63.5

C

Hem width ± 1 cm

51.5

56.5

61.5

D

Across shoulder (seam to seam) ± 1 cm

46.5

49.5

52.5

E

Sleeve length (from shoulder seam) ± 1 cm

60.5

63.5

66.5

F

Sleeve opening (rib, relaxed) ± 0.5 cm

9.5

10.5

11.5

G

Armhole (straight) ± 0.5 cm

O

Neck band height (finished) ± 0.3 cm

2.5

P

Placket length (HPS to bar-tack) ± 0.5 cm

15.5

16.5

17.5

Make a shopper size chart from this template (PNG or Shopify) →Sample back from the factory? Check it against this tech pack →

Colourways

Oatmeal

#DCD3C3

Faded Black

#2A2A2A

Spruce

#3C4A42

Trims & notes

• Buttons x4 + 1 spare (18L, 1.1 cm)

• 1.2 cm twill neck tape (~22 cm)

• Light knit fusible, placket ply (~0.02 m2)

• Woven label (inside back neck)

• Care label (side seam, 10 cm above hem)

• Ask for the shrinkage test on the waffle itself. Waffle knit behaves nothing like the flat jersey a mill will quote beside it — 6-8% in length is normal untreated, and the garment that comes back is a crop top.

• The placket is the whole garment and it is where a first sample fails. Both plies must be cut on the same grain as the front, and the buttonhole ply gets a knit fusible only. A woven fusible is stiff enough to stand away from the chest and it will not relax.

• Bar-tack the bottom of the placket through every ply, 1.6 cm wide. This is the single point the garment is pulled from when it goes on and off over the head.

• Keep the shoulder drop at 1.5 cm. The 2026 direction on the top half is narrower and sloped, not dropped, and a waffle henley with a 4 cm drop reads as a 2021 hoodie with buttons.

• Buttonhole size is 1.3 cm for an 18L button, cut after the placket is topstitched, not before. Waffle frays at a cut edge faster than jersey — specify a bar-tacked keyhole or a gimp-corded buttonhole.