Trims & notes
• #5 moulded reverse-coil zip, 22 cm, open-top closed-end
• Zip puller, matte metal or moulded, 2.5 cm
• 1.2 cm twill neck tape (~26 cm)
• Woven label (inside back neck)
• Care label (side seam, 10 cm above hem)
• Measure the 22 cm zip from HPS, not from the neck seam. Specified from the seam it lands 6 cm lower than drawn and the opening reaches the chest, which is a different garment.
• Do not fuse the placket. A woven or non-woven fusible behind a zip in 400 GSM fleece puckers along the whole tape in the first wash, and no amount of pressing recovers it. The self-fabric facing is the structure.
• Line the collar in self fabric and keep it at 6 cm. Above about 8 cm a fleece stand needs interlining or it folds over on itself, and interlining puts you back in the pucker problem.
• The zip stop box at the bottom of the opening carries the whole load when the garment is pulled on. Bar-tack it 1.9 cm wide through body, facing and both zip tapes.
• Rib hem relaxed is 56 cm against a 60 cm chest. Cutting the rib to the chest width gives a straight tube — the 4 cm is the silhouette, not a tolerance.